As one of Europe’s top places to climb, Majorca rock climbing holidays offer huge variety, great climate in a lovely destination. But with over 70 documented spots, including excellent deep water soloing, what are the best crags to climb in Mallorca?
Much of the climbing in Mallorca happens in the Tramuntana mountains that span the north-west of the island. The area makes up around 30% of Majorca and is home to dramatic scenery and reaches up to 1,445m at Puig Major.
Mallorca vs Majorca
First let’s clear up the name. Should the island be called Mallorca or Majorca. Having Anglicised the name in the 1970s, it is only really us Brits that call it Majorca (with a hard ‘J’).
Locals, the rest of Spain, pretty much all of Europe and the rest of the world call it Mallorca. So we should to.
Of course ‘ll’ in Spanish makes a kind of soft ‘j’ sound. So you can still pronounce it Majorca if you wish. Although along with the Angelic pronunciation of paella and chorizo you might annoy Spanish speakers.
For this article about Majorca rock climbing holidays and the best crags to climb in Mallorca we’re going to use both. This way we can’t possibly be wrong, but I guess we can’t be right either…
Majorca rock climbing holidays
Majorca is the largest of the Balearic islands. Located off the east coast of Spain in the Mediterranean. It has long been a popular low cost package holiday destination from the UK, with cheap beer, fry ups and sunburnt tourists.
However away from the resorts the island is stunningly beautiful. There are plenty of authentic villages, with traditional food and drink. You’ll find many lovely beaches that are rarely packed. And Palma, the attractive, laid-back capital, is well worth a visit.
The tourist facilities are great, flights are cheap and there is accommodation for all budgets. But that’s not what makes Majorca rock climbing holidays so popular.
The best crags to climb in Mallorca are up there with some of the top rock climbing destinations worldwide. There is excellent climbing all over the island and much of it is easy to reach from Palma.
Palma is a world away from the brash nightlife and busy beaches found in some places on the island. If you want a city climbing break it makes a great base to climb in Mallorca. Although be warned it is more expensive than most of the island.
9 best crags to climb in Mallorca
There are more than 70 documented crags in Majorca. Below are a nine of the best places to get hands on rock in Mallorca:
With over 180 climbs S’estret is the largest crag in Mallorca. The climbing is easy to access and found south of Valldemossa just a half hour drive from Palma.
It is a great spot with some lovely views and a good range of faces offering different aspects. Routes, often on eye catching white limestone, range from 4b to 8c. There is also plenty of bouldering ranging from V0 to V12.
Just twenty minutes north of Palma is Sa Gubia is the nearest large crag to the capital. You’ll find a lot of sports climbing with around 140 routes ranging from 4a to 8b.
The rock forms a huge natural amphitheatre. With both single and multi pitch options and new routes opening all the time – there is a lot to choose from. In terms of proximity to Palma it’s one of the best crags to climb in Mallorca.
From Sa Gubia it’s just a short hop over to Fraguel crag. This east facing limestone face has more than 60 routes are rated 4c to 9a+. On the whole climbing here is more difficult than Sa Gubia.
Puig de Garrafa
Found in the south west of the island, Puig de Garrafa is only a 30 minute drive from Palma. With over 100 routes ranging from 2a to 8a+ there is a lot of variety.
Caimari (Les Perxes)
Located around 45 minutes north east of Palma this is an area made up of three crags with some very challenging climbing. Sector Cueva is a steep and bulging cave that is a great option if its too hot or wet elsewhere.
There are around 140 routes ranging from 3a to 8c+ and the three areas offer something for everyone. Without doubt one of the best crags to climb in Mallorca.
On Majorca’s eastern coast, around an hour from Palma, you’ll find one of its most famous climbing spots. The limestone sea cliffs here rise around 18m out of the Mediterranean offering deep water solo climbing (DWS).
There are over 110 routes range from 5c to 8a. The walls are mostly juggy low down and more technical towards the top. Without doubt one of the best crags to climb in Mallorca.
A little further north on the east coast you will find Porto Cristo. Here there are three different spots to DWS. Cova del Diablo is the most famous and is often described as the best deep water soloing on the planet. The other spots Tower of Falcons and Nova are also worth visiting.
This is one of the most popular DWS sites to visit during Majorca rock climbing holidays. Ranging from 4a to 8b there are five areas to choose from with caves and grottos. Maxing out at 14m nothing is too high to risk a big fall, and the climbing is challenging and rewarding.
If you’re after deep water soloing without the drive, head a few minutes out of Palma to Porto Pi. This is a well-established and attractive crag offering seven routes from 6a to 8b+.
In 1978 DWS pioneer Miquel Riera first explored the possibility of bouldering above water in Porto Pi. From this deep water soloing developed in Majorca and around the world. So well worth a visit.
Other crags to climb in Mallorca
There are far too many crags to mention them all in this guide to Majorca rock climbing holidays. Gorg Blau, Alaro (currently access not permitted), La Creveta, Mont Port, Es Verger, Port de Sóller, Cala Magraner, Es Grau des Ruc, Santanyi (Tijuana) and Torre d’en Beu all have more than 40 routes to climb.
Climbing holidays in Majorca
Take a rock climbing holiday in Majorca and you won’t be disappointed. There are not many places the size of this island that offer such an outstanding variety of climbing.
Most of the climbing is within an easy drive of Palma, so you can base yourself in one of Europe’s most attractive cities. Alternatively book a cheap package holiday or stay near one of the crags. If you have a car the entire island is within reach.
We hope you found this guide to climbing in Mallorca (or Majorca!) useful. Please check out our rock climbing holiday discounts as you could save a fortune.