Tian Shan mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan: Climb Khan Tengri (7010m)

Climb Khan Tengri (7010m) a pyramidal peak on the Tengri-Tag ridge. This Tian Shan mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan is a highly challenging but very rewarding expedition

 
Activities
Mountaineering
Duration
21 days
Price
$1,310 to 2,220
 
 
Tian Shan mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan: Climb Khan Tengri (7010m)

To receive the title “Conqueror of the highest mountains of the former USSR” or “Snow Leopard”, a climber must climb five mountains of 7,000 m. These are Khan Tengri Peak, Lenin Peak, Communism Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak and Pobeda Peak.

Khan Tengri is the second most difficult peak after the Victory peak (Pobeda). Khan Tengri is one of biggest, beautiful and hardest to climb peaks in the word. It is located north of the rest of the peaks, its height is 7010 meters (geological height of 6995m but an ice cap increases the altitude). This mountain is easy memorable due to shape of the peak – the marble pyramid. Many climbers consider it the most beautiful among the seven-thousanders.

There are no serious high-altitude overnight stays on Khan Tengri, that is, you can spend the night at 5800 and from there go to the top, but this peak is located farther north than the Pamir peaks, so the altitude is felt stronger, and the temperatures are lower. You need to be prepared for harsh conditions during this Tian Shan mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan.

The classical Route to Climb Khan Tengri (7010m) is from South Inylchek Glacier via west edge of the Semenovski Glacier

It is recommended to reserve first 2 days of this Tian Shan mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan for walks on glacier in the area of Base Camp for acclimatization.

Move to Camp 1 at 4200 m.
Cross South Inylchek Glacier (approx. 6 km) to Camp 1 at the Shubin bivouac (4200 m). It takes approx 2-4 hours. Leave base camp early in the afternoon and sleep in Camp 1 in preparation for a very early start the next day. On the glacier there are no serious dangers except small rivers with swift streams. It is recommended to go around the rivers or cross it with safety equipment in snowed places.

Move to Camp 2.
Due to the prevalence of avalanche activity from the top of Mt Chapaeva (6371 m), which increases under daytime sun, we advise a very early start. The ascent follows the steep, narrow Semenovsky Glacier icefall to its upper reaches. To minimise the risk from icefall it is important to pass this part of the ascent very fast and before the sunrise. Ideally, you pass the icefall by 7:30am, and reach Camp 2 by 12pm. Be aware of crevasses on the way and move only as a roped team. Camp 2 can be pitched just below the west col at an altitude of about 5300 m. There is usually a snow cave at this point that may be used (on a “first come, first served” basis). The risk of icefall is bigger after mid August.

During acclimatisation we recommend two nights at Camp 2, so climbers ascend to 6200 m – 6500 m before descending to the Base Camp for rest.

From Camp 2 the route continues up the western ridge, where fixed ropes afford some protection for short climbs over two or three meter wide couloirs that interrupt the snow slope.

After the acclimatization in Camp 2 and taking a rest in a Base Camp, for the second ascent it is possible to ascend from Base Camp to Camp 3 in one day.

Camp 3 can be pitched at an altitude of 6400 m on the ridge, but space is limited and the location can be somewhat exposed, the ridge being prone to violent north winds. It takes from 3 to 6 hours to move from Camp 2 to Camp 3 depending on the amount of snow.

From Camp 3 the ascent route goes up a small path on the right before reaching a large 150 m dihedral. This is the most technically difficult section of the ascent, but it is protected by fixed ropes.

To Climb Khan Tengri (7010m) the summit can be reached from Camps 2 or 3. From Camp 3 it takes 4-10 hours. Start from Camp 3 is recommended at 4 am. Wind in the summit area summit reduces between 12:00 and 14:00. Descent to Base Camp can be made in one a long day.

Conditions and notes to Climb Khan Tengri (7010m):

Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose ascent tactics themselves.
Usually, the organization providing the Khan-Tengri – Maida-Adyr helicopter only confirms helicopter prices in May, just before the season. In case of significant price rises for helicopter flights (10% or more) ITMC reserves the right to change the program price accordingly. In any case the question of price will be solved by mutual consent.

Helicopter baggage limit is 30 kg per person (approx. one rucksack per person). If you plan to have more than 70 kg of overweight, please inform us in advance, so we can check the total weight on your flight. The price for overweight baggage is EUR 2 per kg.

Helicopters in Inylchek glacier area usually operate from July 15 till August 30 and sometimes till September 10.

If an expedition group decides to send mountaineering kit to Bishkek or Karakol in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Karakol. For more details please contact us.
Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of USD 40 000.

Clients statement regarding Tian Shan mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan

ITMC insistently advises all participants of hiking, climbing and mountaineering to be aware of and accept possible risks of personal injury or death that might be caused by the afore mentioned activities. Participants should be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

Price Includes

  • Registration with the passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit
  • Registration with the local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of Ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Return land transfer from Bishkek airport to Karakol
  • Return land transfer from Karakol to Maida-Adyr by 4WD vehicle
  • Return Helicopter flight Maida-Adyr - Khan-Tengri Base Camp
  • Standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek: Visa support (if required)
  • Accommodation: in Karakol: 2* Hotel or a Guest House (incl. breakfast) - 2 nights; in Maida-Adyr Camp: Cottage (2-4 people sharing basis, incl. breakfast) – 1 night; in Khan-Tengri Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis
  • Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri Peak (Chapaev Peak)
  • Summer Shower or Sauna in the Base Camp
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
  • Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
  • Assistance with changing departure dates of air tickets. Air company amendment fees are paid only.
  • Full board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp – 7 days - to climb Khan Tengri
  • Standard programme Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr Visa support (if required)
  • Border permit
  • Registration with the local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of Ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Return helicopter flight Maida-Adyr - Khan-Tengri Base Camp – Maida-Adyr
  • Accommodation in climbers’ own tents in Base Camp
  • Fixed ropes on part of the route to Khan-Tengri (Chapaev Peak)
  • Summer Shower or Sauna in Base Camp
  • Storage service during Tian Shan mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan
  • Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
  • Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
  • Assistance changing departure dates of air tickets. Air company amendment fees are paid only.
  • Registration with passport department OVIR (if required)

Price Excludes

  1. Return land transfer Bishkek – Karakol – Bishkek $ 240 per transfer by minibus, 8 persons max
  2. Return land transfer Karakol – Maidaadyr – Karakol $ 280 per transfer by UAZ, 3 persons max
  3. Return land transfer Karakol – Maidaadyr – Karakol $ 420 per transfer by GAZ-66, 16 persons max
  4. Baggage delivery from Maida-Adyr to Khan-Tengri Base Camp $ 5 per kg
  5. Helicopter show-flight in area of Inylchek Glacier $ 1800 per 30 min flight
  6. Meals: Full Board in Maida-Adyr Camp $ 40 per person per day
  7. Meals: Full Board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp $ 52 per person per day
  8. Bar
  9. Transfer / flight from Almaty or Tashkent to Bishkek
  10. Accommodation in Bishkek: Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room $ 80, standard single room $ 70 incl. breakfast
  11. Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: $ 10 per canister (230 gr)
  12. Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear): - Mountain Guide: $ 3300 per programme - Mountain Guide trained according to programme of UIAGM standards: $ 3800 per programme
  13. Rent of satellite phone for ascent (available in Bishkek only - safety deposit $300 is required): $20 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
  14. Use of sat phone and internet in Base Camp is paid according to price list
  15. Acclimatization programme on Ak-Sai Glacier
  16. Trekking and Horse riding in the area of Issyk-Kul Lake
  17. Excursions in Bishkek, Karakol, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others
  18. Equipment for rent (tent, sleeping mat, gas canisters and gas stove burner etc)

What to expect

Standard Tian Shan mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan Program: Bishkek - Bishkek

Day 1. Flight to Bishkek.
Day 2. Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (430 km, 7-8 hrs). Accommodation is a Hotel 2* / Guest House
Day 3. Transfer from Karakol to Maida-Adyr (180 км, 5 hrs) via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Overnight in the cottages at 2500 m. Accommodation in Maida-Adyr Camp
Day 4. Helicopter flight to either Southern or Northern Khan-Tengri Base Camp, (~ 25 min). Overnight in tents at 4100 м.
Days 5-19. Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).
Day 20. Helicopter flight from Base Camp to Maida-Adyr (~25 min). Land transfer to Karakol (180 км, 5 hrs).
Accommodation in a Hotel 2* / Guest House
Day 21. Transfer to Bishkek (430 km, 7-8 hrs). Transfer to airport. Departure.

Standard program: Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr

Day 1. Helicopter flight to either Southern or Northern Khan-Tengri Base Camp, (~ 25 min). Overnight in climber’s own tents at 4100 м.
Days 2-16. Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).
Day 17. Helicopter flight from Base Camp to Maida-Adyr (~ 25 min).

Notes: Duration of adventure to climb Khan Tengri can be changed by request.

A DISCOUNT applies to groups of 7 persons or more for the Bishkek – Bishkek program

 

Tian Shan mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan: Climb Khan Tengri (7010m): From $1,310 to $2,220 for 21 days

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