Learn and practice alpine rock climbing skills in the towering tooth-like spires and broken glaciers of Bugaboo Provincial Park in Canada
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Join the Alpine Rock Climbing Course in the Bugaboos, Canada
The towering tooth-like spires and broken glaciers of Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia make this iconic alpine climbing zone the perfect venue for an intro to alpine rock course. The Bugaboos Intro to Alpine Rock climbing course has been designed for people with basic mountaineering and rock climbing skills who would like to progress towards climbing more challenging alpine rock objectives. With the low guide-to-student ratios on this mountaineering course, you can expect intensive personal instruction tailored to both your ability and objectives. This alpine skills course is based from the Kain Hut in the world-famous Bugaboo Provincial Park, British Columbia.
Alpine Rock Climbing Course in the Bugaboos, Canada: Itinerary
Day 1: We meet at the Yamnuska Office in Canmore at 7:30 am for introductions, a review of course goals and itinerary, and an equipment check. After packing up, it’s a 4-hour drive through Radium Hot Springs and down the back roads of British Columbia into the wilderness of the Purcell Mountains in Bugaboo Provincial Park. A steep but stunning hike involving 5 km and 700m of elevation gain will put us at the comfortable Kain hut at 2230m. This will take us between 3 and 4 hours.
Day 2-4: The glaciers and peaks in the Bugaboos will be our classroom to learn the skills required to become an independent alpine rock climber. These three days will have a combination of climbing skills instruction and student lead trips with coaching from your Yamnuska-certified guide. Common objectives include The Hounds Tooth, East Post Spire, Crescent Spire, or any of the classic glacier traverses in the area.
Day 5: We will set our sights on one of the larger and more challenging Spires in the area and put your new skills to the test. This will be a combination of instruction and observation as your guide shows you how to move quickly and efficiently on a challenging objective. Common objectives include Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Spire, and Snowpatch Spire. Expect a big and challenging (but fun and rewarding) day.
Day 6: A final shorter student-led objective in the area will be attempted before we descend to the vehicles and return to Canmore. The Bugaboos have many ideal student-led objectives that will build your confidence and give you the skills to start climbing alpine rock objectives. You will likely begin planning your next trip to the Bugaboos on your way back to the car!
Curriculum
There is considerable flexibility built into the delivery of this course, no course is exactly the same. Snow, weather, and route conditions in Bugaboo Provincial Park will dictate the order to provide the highest quality program.
Key topics will be constantly revisited during the program.
Topics include:
Glacier Skills:
Snow and Ice Movement Review
Use of Ice Axe
Self Arrests
Snow and/or Ice Anchors
Walking with Crampons
Use of Rope on Glaciers
Crevasse Rescue –2-man rope team systems
Alpine Rock Scrambling Skills:
Safe Movement Skills
Route finding
Managing Loose Rock
Rope use
Rock Protection:
Placing Nuts and Cams
Clipping Protection
Building Anchors using gear and natural features
The Multi-Pitch System
Navigation:
Map and Compass Use
Route Planning
Pacing
Hazard Evaluation and Route Selection:
Rock Fall
Snow and Avalanche Conditions
Bergshrunds
Weather
Accident and Emergency Procedures
ALPINE CLIMBS!!! This is a ‘hands-on’ course and we go to the Bugaboos to climb! Skills are explained, demonstrated in the field, and then put into practice by participants during glacier crossings and peak ascents in the Bugaboos. Expect to be sharing the lead, solving route-finding problems, and fully involved in the decision-making process.
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